Бонд. Джеймс Бонд

Костюм – вещь не менее необходимая в мужском гардеробе, чем пара чистых носков на батарее или презерватив в кармане. Выбор правильного костюма – задача далеко не из самых простых, таящая в себе множество подводных камней. Но не волнуйся, мы, аки Чип и Дейл, уже спешим тебе на помощь.

О качестве

Покупая костюм, разумеется, обрати внимание на ткань. То, что синтетика с треском проигрывает натуральным тканям, ты, надеюсь, знаешь и так. Внимательно читай ярлык. Если костюм прошел контроль Международного Секретариата Шерсти (да, такой, правда, есть), то ты обязательно найдешь знак Woolmark или Pure wool. Если костюм изготовлен из тканей «крутых» мировых текстильных производителей, то на него с большой вероятностью будет нашита именная марка – и это признак высочайшего качества номер 2. Кроме того, обрати внимание на швы. При изготовлении хорошего костюма клей стараются не использовать, поэтому, чем выше доля ниточных швов, тем элитнее костюм, который ты смотришь. Правда, не мы одни такие умные, и некоторые производители маскируют свои изделия под высококачественные костюмы, хотя они таковыми не являются. Так что, если видишь неаккуратные, присборенные строчки – проходи мимо, это признак дефектности.

Нет, нет, нет

Костюм может быть самым разным – на эту тему написано немало талмудов и защищена не одна диссертация. Вариаций множество, поэтому мы ограничимся рассказом, каким костюм точно НЕ должен быть. Во-первых, не напутай с размером. Костюм, висящий на тебе, как на вешалке – это плохо. Равно, как и натянутые складки на спине и подмышках. Еще большего внимания заслуживают брюки: «гармошка», как говорится, маздай. Нижний край брюк должен свободно лежать на ботинках, но образуя всего один (и не более!) залом. Нижний край брюк должен быть отрезан скосом, то есть с задней стороны брюки должны быть сантиметра на полтора длиннее. Это нужно для того, чтобы окружающие не смогли насладиться видом твоих икр. Носками – максимум. Во-вторых, если не хочешь, чтобы в ресторане у тебя попросили принести еще 2 бокала вина, не носи чисто черный костюм. Оставь его для официантов, охранников и метрдотелей. Если уж очень хочется классики, то покупай черный в неяркую, что называется, деликатную полоску. Исключением из правила являются либо очень формальные мероприятия (тут нужен качественный и дорогой костюм), либо очень неформальные (например, поход в ночной клуб). Ну и, в-третьих, следуй старинному английскому правилу, которое живо до сих пор: никогда не застегивай нижнюю пуговицу на пиджаке. Если садишься за стол или в кресло, можно расстегнуть пиджак. Снимать можно только, если собеседница уже расстегивает свое платье, то бишь в совсем неформальной ситуации.

Напоследок

Немножко поговорим о выигрышных сочетаниях цветов. Синий костюм выгодно смотрится с белым (классика), бордовым (смело, эффектно) и розовым (нарядно, и нечего делать такой ехидный взгляд). Серый – с синим (опять же, классика), голубым (непротокольно) и цветом морской волны (очень элегантно). Коричневому костюму отлично подойдут вещи оранжевого (ярко, выделяет из серой массы), бежевого (стильно) и хаки (и снова классика) цвета. Черному – как ни странно, черный (только не для работы), красный (увидят все) и серый (в 4-ый раз классика).

В общем, читай, перечитывай и запоминай. Если все усвоишь и правильно распорядишься полученными знаниями, скоро будешь выглядеть не хуже какого-нибудь Джеймса Бонда. Эффект на женскую аудиторию тоже будет не меньший, так что немножко постараться стоит.


Сергей Агапов 


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